When you’re from France and your wonderful boss, Emily Silva, asks you to host a winemaking masterclass, it’s always an honour. But when you find out that Baptiste Belly from Cos d’Estournel is joining—representing one of the most prestigious second growth châteaux of Saint-Estèphe in Bordeaux—it feels as though your heart is singing La Marseillaise, and the President himself is about to walk in.
I put a lot of heart into preparing for this special occasion, and what a reward it was. The joy of tasting such remarkable wines and seeing the smiles of our dear Oxford guests made it a truly memorable and rare experience.
A bit of history: Cos d’Estournel was founded in 1811 by Louis Gaspard d’Estournel. Having inherited vineyards from his family, he tirelessly sought new markets, travelling to India three times—bringing back with him the inspiration that shaped the exotic identity of the estate. His vision gave rise to a spectacular palace of wine, adorned with majestic pagodas and Moorish architecture.
Located next to Lafite Rothschild, separated only by a small stream known as the swamp of Lafite, Cos d’Estournel stands on a 26-meter-high hill composed mainly of gravel and clay. A unique clay vein diagonally crosses the vineyard, where Merlot was planted during WWI by women in 1915. To honour them, the winery released “Cos100” in 2015—a 100% Merlot cuvée celebrating the centenary of the Parcelle des Femmes.
Since 2000, under the ownership of Michel Reybier, the estate has seen significant investment and innovation. White varietals have been planted in the northern Haut-Médoc, producing rare yet exceptional blends of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon. Cos d’Estournel also acquired Cos Labory—another jewel we were lucky to taste.
Today, the winery is an ultra-modern marvel: 84 isothermal vats shaped like truncated cones ensure even fermentation, guided entirely by gravity—no pumps involved. Four of these vats even sit in glass elevators, allowing for gentle, seamless winemaking. Beneath it all, a barrel cellar lies 13 meters underground, maintaining a steady 15°C—once again relying solely on gravity for movement.
During our tasting journey, we explored:
- G d’Estournel 2020
- G d’Estournel 2018
- Cos Labory 2018
- Pagodes de Cos 2020
- Pagodes de Cos 2017
- Cos d’Estournel 2018
- Cos d’Estournel 2014
And thanks to the generosity of a representative from Wadham College, we had the extraordinary pleasure of tasting a beautifully preserved Cos d’Estournel 1986—still vibrant, fresh, and truly unforgettable.
Baptiste, our gracious guest and chef d’orchestre, led the masterclass with elegance, charm, and an encyclopedic knowledge of wine—never dull, never repetitive, and always approachable. What began as an honour quickly turned into genuine enjoyment. Spending two days in Oxford with him was both enriching and fun.
My heartfelt thanks to Baptiste and Cos d’Estournel, to my company for entrusting me with this event, to Tim—my loyal assistant—and to all the wonderful guests who attended and made this event so special.
Merci, et vive le Cos !
